In the very centre of the lovely and dull in a really good way Copenhagen, this is a large ‘fun park’ open long hours nearly every day. With its fairground rides, eating places, theatres and shops set amidst impeccably kept walks and waterways, it’s one of the last evocations in Europe of what were commonplace urban leisure spaces up until the late 19th century – Google Vauxhall Gardens for more on these un-genteel places. Not my idea of fun, being overcharged for revolting donuts and the opportunity to wretch them up on a blood-curdling ride, but then I’m a gentle lady gardener.

At Tivoli the round-the-clock screams of the visitors on the terrifying rides are an uncanny backdrop to the peaceful, hum drum sounds of the relaxed Danes as they cycle around the park’s perimeter languidly, kids and loaves stuffed into the odd wheelbarrows they somehow fixed to the front of their bikes.

Tivoli contains a number of 19th c buildings, but this (probably) 1950’s one caught my eye, with its row of flags and its facade’s candy colours deliciously skewing its Modernist lines. In front of it was planted a garden roughly the same size as its front elevation, a riot (still, in the cool Danish September) of creamy floribunda roses in keeping with the date of the building. Amidst these though was a more contemporary and relaxed planting of things like verbena bonariensis and nicotiana, the overall impression being of a rather Cath Kidston-esque 1950’s style tablecloth strewn with lurid fondant fancies.

Lovely.

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